Well, I had every intention of getting to the Catacombs, or at least the Foro Italico (what used to be the Mussolini Forum described by Grandma Rick), but true to form, Marina and I really spent most of our time in Rome eating gelato and pizza, drinking Campari and Aperol in cafes, and sampling traditional Roman food in oesterias and trattorias in the evening. We wandered around the little streets, did some shopping, hunted for treasure in some used bookshops and markets, and toured the Keats-Shelley House museum. We also made a stop at the Capuchin Crypt, which never fails to amaze me. We did see the Pantheon, the Palazzo Farnese, Piazza Colonna, the Trevi Fountain (I even threw in a coin), and countless other historic sights- simply because they are nearly impossible to avoid while walking around the city- but we were anything but faithful to Grandma Rick’s itinerary. Oh, well…
sora lella on the left; felice on the right
I think the best gelato we had was at I Caruso, and at Fatamorgana, in Prati. But we also really liked Fiocco di Neve, near the Pantheon, Bistro Gelato (in Prati), Giolitti (it’s just so classic, and their Amarena was fantastic), and Il Gelato di Claudio Torce in Testaccio (their sorbetti were my favorite). We ate a lot of gelato. Our favorite lunch was at Trapizzino; I was sad that Il Forno di Campo de Fiore was closed- it’s my favorite pizza in Rome- but we tried both Roscioli and Pizzarium, which were good (though not as good as Pizza Divina in Florence). We had incredibly delicious food but lousy service at Ristorante Le Mani in Pasta, and amazing service and great food at Sora Lella, and we ended our trip at my favorite classic Roman restaurant: Felice a Testaccio. I had been there two years ago and loved it, and this time it completely lived up to my memory. Such a good way to end our time in Italy together!
August 16- Sunday- Rome
SPQR- seen on all Roman buildings, public places- means “Senatus Populusque Romanus” or “the Senate and the Roman People.” Taken from Roman arch in Forum of Rome.
Pantheon– this morning visited here- most perfect of ancient buildings of Rome. Built 27 BC by Agrippa- restored about 202 AD by Hadrian. I’m glad to have seen the Pantheon- so much I have read about it- the pillars in the front, the portico still stands in tact- except that the gilded mosaic roof was removed for St. Peter’s. The Pantheon is the burial place for kings of Italy. Rafael is buried here. It has a huge dome- in fact it is almost all dome- perfect work. Circular room.
40 cards for 11 lira (talked down from 16), 1936
Bought cards (40) at a bargain- got them for 11 lira- price was 16 lira.
Today was quite hot- the sun was very strong. We walked and walked- bumped into the Florence boys- still wearing their crushed linen suits. Left them and went to San Pietro– to see statue of Moses- by Michelangelo. Queer to see the Jewish prophet in house of Christ. It has strength, courage, vision, fearlessness. Bella said that the position of one foot ahead of the other in the sitting position indicates alertness. And that the flowing beard is a means of connoting wisdom. On either side of Moses is a statue of Leah and Rachel.
From here took bus to Catacombs- very expensive- 85 cenitissimos- only to find that they were closed, along the Appian Way – the road that leads to Naples.
Appian Antica. Took bus to Coliseum. Horse carriage from here- mostly uphill- driver kept whipping horse.
After lunch back to catacombs in crowded bus- people jammed up against each other- hot. Cool at catacombs. Catacombs of St. Calistus. Given candle- guide was Irish- distinct brogue- a Salesian brother.
Very cold down in catacombs, breath can be seen.
Here lie buried the early Christians- the early Popes- martyrs and saints, (20 Popes). Most of the graves are merely hollows in the cave walls. Important people had tombs. There is a chapel underground- still hold services here. There are inscriptions, pictures, epigraphs, symbols. The arches- the cross, fresoes of Jesus, St. Cecilia. Also reclining statue of St. Cecilia.
Back to hotel- packed- dinner. Had arguemnet about bill- took my seven for a one- thought 27.50 lira was 21.50 lira- apologized.
Charlie Cahn took me to station. Said goodbye to Bella at hotel. Got good compartment- leather seats- corner seat- all to myself, I hope- for the night- have pillow (2 lira). I hope I can sleep. I wonder how it will be being alone on the train at night. Seem to be a lot of officials.
Wish I could have stayed longer in Rome. There was so much to see- Thieves Market, Hadrian’s Tomb.
altare della patria, photographed by grandma rick in 1936, and myself yesterday (not realizing i was following suit)
Seventy Eight Years Later 